Wake up Neo: My Week in Haiti
Part 1
by David Bigbee
I opened my eyes slightly as I woke up, and immediately my mind flooded with questions: Is that sunlight? Where am I? Was that day of travelling just a dream? Instead of birds chirping, I heard voices speaking quickly. In Creole. Oh yeah—I’m in Haiti.
The day before, we had traveled from the United States to the building we now occupy. After our plane touched down in Port-au-Prince, we eagerly, yet nervously worked our way through customs and baggage claim. I tried to act like I knew what I was doing. I didn’t want to be the stupid American that makes a mistake and gets stared at—as if a group of 18 Americans huddled around baggage carts in the middle of a Haitian airport doesn’t draw enough attention. As of this point, we had not left our nice, comfortable American bubble: we had transitioned from an airplane, to an airport, to an air conditioned bus. We were all tired, but much too intrigued by the world just beyond our windows to sleep.
Have you ever noticed that a car window looks a whole lot like a TV screen? Watching the scenes outside my window, I could distance myself from the people on the other side of the glass as we rode through the streets of Port-au-Prince. Immersed in the usual comforts of air conditioning, American music, and English speaking people, I felt as if the Haitian people just feet from me might as well have been a thousand miles away on some video about Haiti I had seen a million times. Some of us described this car trip as depressing, hopeless, and overwhelming. We saw tent cities, rubble, garbage—no smiles. We saw a presidential palace still in ruin: a haunting confirmation of the ever-present feeling that no one was really in charge.
The bus took us to Pastor Paul’s house, which had electricity, couches, and great food—fairly similar to our American lifestyles. From there, we took trucks up to Plain Matin. We saw some Haitians as we got our stuff moved into the church for the night, but we didn’t get to shake their hands, or learn their names, or see their faces, or hear their stories. Which brings us to this morning. We all woke up and began to realize that our American bubble was about to be burst: it was the beginning of a great adventure.
A combination of roosters, sunlight and Haitian morning chatter woke me up. My green cot creaked as I sat up to check my unfamiliar surroundings. I rubbed the sleepiness out of my eyes and was greeted with sheepish, confused smiles by the people I would soon be calling my friends. I decided the first thing I wanted to do was journal. I pulled my notebook and pen out of my backpack and began to write down my thoughts. “Day 1: Boy, it was cold last night!”. I didn’t anticipate it being as cold as it was up in the mountains of Plain Matin, but it seemed fitting. In the past 24 hours, I had gone from Pittsburgh weather, which was cold enough that I could see my breath; to the muggy, permeating warmth of the Haitian sun; to a brief, but torrential downpour; to a cold night curled up in my sleeping bag. The weather foretold of the experiences that awaited us. Haiti is a nation of extremes: extreme poverty, extreme suffering, extreme beauty, extreme perseverance. In just a week’s time, we would see and experience each of these extremes for ourselves and step foot back on American soil with a new heart, a heart that was repeatedly broken and restored as we witnessed the realities of life in the Haitian countryside.
From that point, whether you jumped in or you were pushed in, you were immersed in Haiti. We were told to leave our expectations at home, but undoubtedly they came along with us. Just as undoubtedly, though, those expectations were left trampled like the garbage under a tap-tap with fifteen Haitians in the back. Hm, I wonder if they really do eat spaghetti for breakfast turns pretty quickly to Uhh, a bug just landed in my spaghetti.
Our first real interaction with the Haitians in Plain Matin came that morning, as the church building was seemingly flooded with curious children. Shockingly, word had gotten out that a bunch of blans were in the community. A few “Sak pase?”s and “Ki jan oule?”s later, we all seemed to stand around, unsure of exactly what to do. What to do with a bunch of adorable Haitian kids that we can’t really talk to? Thankfully, someone’s babysitting instincts kicked in. Bust out the crayons and coloring books! I was watching one boy as he started drawing. After a few moments, he realized I was looking over his shoulder, and he turned and said something to me in Creole. I’m not sure of the exact translation, but considering the look on his face, I’m pretty sure it was something to the effect of,“What the heck are you looking at?” Classic.
It was a great way to start our trip, but we were in Haiti for more than feel-good moments and photo-ops. We piggy-backed onto a program with the Croix Rouge, which is the Haitian version of Red Cross. They were sending volunteers out into the countryside to inform people, in light of the recent cholera outbreak, of clean water handling, cooking, and sanitation practices. They passed out posters, soap, and water sanitation tablets. We journeyed out into the countryside that day in groups of three accompanied by interpreters. This was the first time I truly appreciated the fantastic view we had in Plain Matin—rolling hills that seem to go on forever paths winding every which way, dotted every once in a while by a small house made of sticks, tin, and mud. After much yelling from hill to hill, an impromptu meeting of Haitians seemed to form out of nowhere. While the volunteer explained the information and handed out the soap and posters, I wondered to myself how it was possible that they didn’t know this information already. Sanitation practices seemed second nature to me. But these people are subsistence farmers. They work tirelessly just to feed themselves and their family. When would they have time to learn and organize these things? As I shook the people’s hands as we left the meeting, I realized how hard those hands had worked, how much these people persevere in just their daily lives. It is saddening, and left me feeling helpless, especially considering the dubious sustainability of passing out soap and water tablets. After we repeated the process a few times, we headed back in for lunch. Fittingly, it rained.
That first morning is a perfect microcosm of our time in Plain Matin. We laughed. We felt the joy of seeing kids just being kids, regardless of the circumstances they live in. We felt the heartbreak of seeing the poorest living conditions in this hemisphere. But it always came back to a communal table. Haitians, Americans, sharing the love of Christ, eating, talking, engaging.
Our second day was a Sunday. Dressed in our Sunday best, we entered the church weary of what to expect. A common observation was how nicely the Haitians were dressed, how clean their clothes were. “Chapel Dan” shared a message of how Americans and Haitians had come together, and despite distance, language barriers, and cultural barriers, we had one voice. His message was only further driven home as, in addition to clapping along with the Haitians, we were able to recognize a few hymns, so that we could sing along in English. Our common thread is our creator, our Lord, our Savior and our desire to praise Him. Two groups that could not be more different both praising God. The same God who somehow managed to put them both in one place.
The next three days were work days. In comparison with the spiritual transformations going on, our actual “work” almost seems to blend into the background in retrospect. Heck, when we got there, the Haitians had already built what we intended to build. We weren’t really necessary. We carried buckets of water, applied stucco to the outside walls, built up concrete block in the space between the walls and the roof. But Haitians could have completed those tasks themselves. Friends here in the U.S. point this out and say, “Why didn’t you use the money you used for airline tickets to just give to them? Wouldn’t that have been better?” But our purpose for being there is far beyond the material. By being present, working with the Haitians in solidarity, their cause becomes our cause. We now have a vision for what is possible in Plain Matin, a vision that would not have been possible if we had simply sent money. We have relationships, memories, and ideas that will eventually build this community up beyond what simply money could. Our presence was invaluable.